by Tom Ford, Maurer & Wirtz, and Thierry Mugler; 2007, 1792, & 2001;
so-so, good, good
More fraternal siblings, this time fraternal triplets. Again, close,
but not identical, all have the fresh summer-lemon body, and what they
do with it later is where the difference lies, and Tom Ford ought to be
ashamed of himself!
Sure, he was innovative with his earlier scents: Black Orchid was
exquisite, For Men was unpleasant (for me, it smelling like replicant
ladyparts and all) but very unique, then he did retro very well with
Violet Blonde, but Neroli Portofino? Come ON! Pretty much ripping off
Thierry Mugler’s Cologne wholesale, right down to the slightly
downmarket public-restroom-soap note, which it quickly backs away from,
and instead dives headfirst towards the very plastic smelling 4711 fake
citrus center notes. It’s still classy, and lovely, but generic and a
really a copycat of its older brothers.
Now, 4711 has had a lot of work done over the years, and the
stretched skin on his smooth, lemony face is sure flawless, but obvious.
He still swans around Europe, respected by the ladies, still
occasionally emulated by very young men, but no longer an icon. Cologne
showed up and got the party started again, being just louche enough for
interest, but not enough to be offensive. Now Neroli is trying to hit
the scene, and has followed Cologne’s
style to the letter, but didn’t forget 4711′s original key attractions,
but still couldn’t pull it off. Neroli imitated the right swank from
his brothers, but forgot to become his own individual on the way to the
party.
Neroli Portofino sample arrived unasked-for in the mail from
Neiman-Marcus. Large bottle of 4711 bought from a bridal discounter.
Cologne sample bought from the now-defunct ReiRien.
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Showing posts with label Thierry Mugler. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thierry Mugler. Show all posts
June 27, 2012
January 5, 2011
Womanity
by Thierry Mugler, 2010
Have you seen its bottle?! It's the most disquieting perfume bottle that's ever been mass-produced. A clear columnar bottle with pewterish metal capping shaped like melting Aztec heiroglyphics, a chain connecting a collar for the spray cover, and tacked on like an afterthought-- a woman's face?! Creep-y! And, get this, the juice.... is pink! The columnar form plus face tells me Thierry is on his Sci-Fi repurposing twist again, 'cause it looks like the bad guys in this little B-movie that we've all seen too much of on USA Network during summer break... (No? OK, maybe it was just me...)
So the packaging is ballsy for a mainstream perfume, got that. So how's it smell?
Eh... it's pink.
Yes, yes, it's fig & salt& musk & coconut & tropical flowers & that freshfruity-melonwater thing that everything's got in it nowadays. It all adds up to meh, really. Take a base of his Cologne, add a few (small, tiny) drops of Alien, standard-issue "fig" scent, and a dollop of Hermès Eau des Merveilles and you basically got it. Not bad, but not remarkable either. It doesn't live up to its own bottle.
You could do worse, but Thierry could definitely do better. Hey look! It comes in a ring...
Have you seen its bottle?! It's the most disquieting perfume bottle that's ever been mass-produced. A clear columnar bottle with pewterish metal capping shaped like melting Aztec heiroglyphics, a chain connecting a collar for the spray cover, and tacked on like an afterthought-- a woman's face?! Creep-y! And, get this, the juice.... is pink! The columnar form plus face tells me Thierry is on his Sci-Fi repurposing twist again, 'cause it looks like the bad guys in this little B-movie that we've all seen too much of on USA Network during summer break... (No? OK, maybe it was just me...)
So the packaging is ballsy for a mainstream perfume, got that. So how's it smell?
Eh... it's pink.
Yes, yes, it's fig & salt& musk & coconut & tropical flowers & that freshfruity-melonwater thing that everything's got in it nowadays. It all adds up to meh, really. Take a base of his Cologne, add a few (small, tiny) drops of Alien, standard-issue "fig" scent, and a dollop of Hermès Eau des Merveilles and you basically got it. Not bad, but not remarkable either. It doesn't live up to its own bottle.
You could do worse, but Thierry could definitely do better. Hey look! It comes in a ring...
February 27, 2010
Alien
by Theirry Mugler, 2005
How do I love thee? Let me count the ways.
I love thee to the depth and scent and sillage
My soul can reach, when feeling anosmic
For the ends smelling and ideal trace.
I love thee to the level of every day's
Most noisome need, by sun and iPod-light.
I love thee secretly, as men strive for gain.
I love thee obsessively, as they turn towards praise.
I love thee with the passion put to ill-use
In my old Giorgio, and with my teen-age's faith.
I love thee with a love I seemed to use
With my lost sense. I love thee with the breadth,
Scent, jasmine! Of all my life; and if Thierry choose,
I shall but love thee better after anaphylaxis!
Jasmine. Wood. Musk. Grape. Loud. Strong. Sublime. Allergenic. Beware.
(apologies to Liz Barrett Browning)
How do I love thee? Let me count the ways.
I love thee to the depth and scent and sillage
My soul can reach, when feeling anosmic
For the ends smelling and ideal trace.
I love thee to the level of every day's
Most noisome need, by sun and iPod-light.
I love thee secretly, as men strive for gain.
I love thee obsessively, as they turn towards praise.
I love thee with the passion put to ill-use
In my old Giorgio, and with my teen-age's faith.
I love thee with a love I seemed to use
With my lost sense. I love thee with the breadth,
Scent, jasmine! Of all my life; and if Thierry choose,
I shall but love thee better after anaphylaxis!
Jasmine. Wood. Musk. Grape. Loud. Strong. Sublime. Allergenic. Beware.
(apologies to Liz Barrett Browning)
June 21, 2009
Cologne
by Thierry Mugler, 2001
Thierry Mugler is an artist at the high-low fashion tightrope walk, because his Cologne is a real work of postmodern art. It starts by smelling like a better-made, more expensive version of 4711, all fresh and citrusy, and you're thinking, "Hey, ok, highend 4711, dude!". Then all of a sudden you're wearing highway reststop bathroom soap, "Whoa! WTF?" (yes, my inner voice sounds like Keanu), which evolves into the barest hint of Nag Champa incense and aftershave lotion, then something fresh-herby starts morphing into Un Jardin en Méditerranée, suddenly zigs away from that luxe smell, zagging back into the reststop bathroom. All this in under 5 min. Then it starts all over again; or, really never went away, just revealed more of itself over time.
Sound complicated? It's not, it's very straightforward and simple smelling. Mugler's scents tend to be rather direct and no-nonsense, hitting you upside the head with their obvious-yet-weird mashups of quotidian accords: Angel=chocolate-musk-vetiver-licorice, Alien=jasmine-wood-musk, and this? Citrus-pink public bathroom soap-incense-herbs. If fashion is the line between taste and trash, this is a work of genius.
Thierry Mugler is an artist at the high-low fashion tightrope walk, because his Cologne is a real work of postmodern art. It starts by smelling like a better-made, more expensive version of 4711, all fresh and citrusy, and you're thinking, "Hey, ok, highend 4711, dude!". Then all of a sudden you're wearing highway reststop bathroom soap, "Whoa! WTF?" (yes, my inner voice sounds like Keanu), which evolves into the barest hint of Nag Champa incense and aftershave lotion, then something fresh-herby starts morphing into Un Jardin en Méditerranée, suddenly zigs away from that luxe smell, zagging back into the reststop bathroom. All this in under 5 min. Then it starts all over again; or, really never went away, just revealed more of itself over time.
Sound complicated? It's not, it's very straightforward and simple smelling. Mugler's scents tend to be rather direct and no-nonsense, hitting you upside the head with their obvious-yet-weird mashups of quotidian accords: Angel=chocolate-musk-vetiver-licorice, Alien=jasmine-wood-musk, and this? Citrus-pink public bathroom soap-incense-herbs. If fashion is the line between taste and trash, this is a work of genius.
January 27, 2009
Quickies
Sorry once again for my long absence. Aren't the holidays swell? As usual, no time for a single in-depth review:
Odeur 53 by Comme des Garçons
Supposedly made of 53 chemicals not found in nature. Has ridiculous ad copy that mentions NONE of the following: Faint whiffs of rose, old leather, stale tobacco, lipstick, dried up mint gum, and a lost violet pastille. It's Eau de Grandma's Purse... oddly, it's not your grandmother's purse.
Prada eau de parfum
Berries, musk, leather accord base. Luxurious, classy. Seemed to be aiming at Kelly Caleche but hit Lolita Lempicka by accident.
Black Amethyst by Bath & Body Works
Lowend deadringer for the above. Less leather, no development. Won't wash off.
888 by Comme des Garçons
Supposedly made to smell like gold bullion, but smells like a mostly generic highend luxury scent. Replace the berries from the Prada with saffron, add a yellow (instead of white) flower accord and it's the same scent. Still... nice, classy, pleasant, gives a warm glow.
Angel Men Pure Coffee by Thierry Mugler
This is Angel (candy-chocolate-musk). For Men (extra musk). Coffee scented (Yum!), which wears off quickly, just musk left (yuck), which sticks to your clothes fiercely (drycleaning!$$!).
Odeur 53 by Comme des Garçons
Supposedly made of 53 chemicals not found in nature. Has ridiculous ad copy that mentions NONE of the following: Faint whiffs of rose, old leather, stale tobacco, lipstick, dried up mint gum, and a lost violet pastille. It's Eau de Grandma's Purse... oddly, it's not your grandmother's purse.
Prada eau de parfum
Berries, musk, leather accord base. Luxurious, classy. Seemed to be aiming at Kelly Caleche but hit Lolita Lempicka by accident.
Black Amethyst by Bath & Body Works
Lowend deadringer for the above. Less leather, no development. Won't wash off.
888 by Comme des Garçons
Supposedly made to smell like gold bullion, but smells like a mostly generic highend luxury scent. Replace the berries from the Prada with saffron, add a yellow (instead of white) flower accord and it's the same scent. Still... nice, classy, pleasant, gives a warm glow.
Angel Men Pure Coffee by Thierry Mugler
This is Angel (candy-chocolate-musk). For Men (extra musk). Coffee scented (Yum!), which wears off quickly, just musk left (yuck), which sticks to your clothes fiercely (drycleaning!$$!).
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